How long before we can walk/drive on our new
This is the most common question we get asked. And
the real answer is this; concrete is fully cured and has
reached its full compressive strength at 28 days, period.
However most situations do not allow for that kind of cure
time. So after years of experience and many jobs offering
a variety of different conditions, we have developed the
following as a guideline for our customers to be able to
use their concrete without adversely affecting the finish.
Walking: We request you not walk on your concrete for at
least 24 hours after the concrete has been finished. Thereafter
if it is used or walked on it will scuff and scratch
easily for at about 3 days. So avoid dragging your feet
and keep pets off for this duration as their nails may scratch
or gouge the new concrete. After 3 days normal foot traffic
may resume but avoid dragging heavy items such as trash
cans for 7 days. For stamped and decorative finishes
this time frame will likely increase.
Driving: We request that you not drive on the new concrete
for 7 days. We have had plenty of customers who did
not want to wait that long and drive on the concrete 3 days
after it was placed without having any problems.
So it can be done with small cars and light trucks but we
recommend 7 days.The full 28 days for heavy equipment or
large heavy trucks(ex: a concrete truck). Propane,
U.P.S. trucks of that nature should be fine after 7 days.
There are different concrete mix designs available
that allow us to substantially increase the psi. or compressive
strength of the concrete which will allow for a faster curing
time and earlier use. We can discuss this and any other
questions you may have when we come to provide your free
is your estimate higher than some of our other estimates?
There are a variety of ways to place and install concrete.
Some people like to cut corners to get the job. We
don't. We use quality materials, have a quality work crew,
are licensed, bonded, insured, and as a result have a higher
over head than contractors who don't. However we have found
our prices to be lower or very competitive against other
Why is my concrete cracking?
Concrete expands and contracts with temperature. It moves
with the ground when an earthquake occurs and feels pressure
when driven on by heavy things. We do our best to
control the cracking by: 1:Evaluating the sub grade and
either removing it if the soil is bad and replace it with
a good base material, or properly compacting the existing
sub grade. 2:Placing rebar. 3:Pouring new concrete
at an adequate thickness. (varies depending on desired use)
4:Placing an adequate number of control joints. 5:In some
situations, when the weather is over 92 degrees we will
request a chemical retarder supplied by the concrete delivery
company to slow down the cure time. If concrete cures to
fast it is prone to cracking. After all that your concrete
still might crack. We have had a crack start in the
bottom of the control joint where it belongs and then jump
out the side and go right across the deck. If driven on
too soon cracks are more likely to occur. Most times
all the cracking stays in the control joints and the job
is flawless. However, concrete cracks and sometimes it's
not where we want it to, that's why we do not warranty cracks.
Why is my stamped concrete turning white and flaking?
Because an inferior sealer was used, or a good sealer was used but improperly applied. Sealing concrete is very similar to painting, the most important part is the preparation. Most companies use a lacquer or solvent based sealer for all applications because it is most common and they provide a high gloss, shiny finish. We have found that after 1 to 2 years when applied in an outdoor application where sun, water and heavy use occurs, these sealers will break down and begin to flake off if they are not properly maintained . (ex. Re-sealing before sealer failure.) To avoid this we only apply a water based sealer for outdoor situations which provides a semi-gloss finish at a low cost, unless the customer desires a high gloss finish in which case proper maintenance is essential.
What is a vapor barrier?
A vapor barrier is simply a sheet of heavy gauge (6 mil)
plastic placed 2 inches below the sub grade. It is required
on all interior applications to prevent moisture from coming
up through the concrete and creating mold under carpet,ext.
It is required in any batched colored concrete for the color
consistency warranty. On 95% of our exterior jobs we do
not place a barrier because it adds to the cost and most
of the time there is no problems with the color. This decision
will be made by each customer.
I spray water on my concrete after it is poured?
Generally NO. If it is hot out and your concrete is natural
gray with no color then you can and it may help with the
curing without affecting color. If your concrete is colored
than definitely no water for at least 4 days. Rain water
is fine but processed city water or high mineral well water
is not good for newly placed colored concrete.